Accessories & Hardware

Complete your reclaimed wood project with authentic hardware, eco-friendly finishes, and purpose-built accessories.

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A reclaimed lumber project deserves hardware and finishes that match its character and environmental values. We stock a curated selection of reclaimed, vintage, and eco-friendly accessories that complement reclaimed wood projects — from structural connectors to decorative hardware to non-toxic wood finishes. Our accessories inventory is sourced with the same selectivity we apply to our lumber: if it does not belong in a quality reclaimed-wood build, we do not carry it.

Reclaimed Metal Brackets

Salvaged steel and iron brackets, straps, and connectors. Cleaned, treated for rust, and ready to use. Each piece carries the patina of its industrial origins.

  • L-brackets
  • T-straps
  • Corner braces
  • Joist hangers

Vintage Hardware

Door handles, hinges, pulls, and latches salvaged from historic buildings. We stock both original vintage pieces and high-quality reproductions.

  • Barn door hardware
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Window latches
  • Gate hinges

Eco-Friendly Finishes

Low-VOC and zero-VOC wood stains, sealers, and oils. We carry products specifically formulated for reclaimed wood that protect without masking character.

  • Natural tung oil
  • Beeswax polish
  • Water-based polyurethane
  • Penetrating wood oil

Fasteners & Connectors

Structural screws, timber bolts, lag screws, and specialty fasteners designed for heavy timber and reclaimed wood applications.

  • Timber screws
  • Through-bolts
  • Hidden fasteners
  • Structural lag bolts

Reclaimed Nails & Spikes

Authentic square-cut nails and railroad spikes salvaged during our de-nailing process. Popular for decorative and craft applications.

  • Square-cut nails
  • Railroad spikes
  • Hand-forged nails
  • Rose-head nails

Care & Maintenance

Products to maintain and protect reclaimed wood over time. Cleaners, touch-up supplies, and UV protectants formulated for aged wood.

  • Wood cleaners
  • UV protectant
  • Touch-up markers
  • Paste wax

Detailed Product Specifications

Specifying the right hardware for reclaimed wood requires attention to material compatibility, load ratings, and finish longevity. The following specifications cover our most commonly specified product lines.

Structural Fasteners & Connectors

ProductMaterialSizes AvailableLoad RatingBest For
SDS Timber ScrewsHardened steel, zinc-coated3" – 10" lengthsShear: 400–900 lbsHeavy timber connections, ledger boards
Through-BoltsGalvanized A307 steel½" – 1" dia., 6" – 24" lengthsTension: 3,000–15,000 lbsPost-beam connections, structural joints
Structural Lag ScrewsHot-dipped galvanized⅜" – ¾" dia., 2.5" – 8"Shear: 250–1,200 lbsBeam hangers, ledger attachment
Hidden Deck Fasteners316 stainless steelStandard (fits 1" gap)Pull-out: 300 lbsReclaimed deck boards, face-free installation
Timber Bolts (carriage)Hot-dipped galvanized½" – ¾", 6" – 16"Shear: 1,500–4,000 lbsTimber frame, trestle connections
Ring-Shank Nails316 stainless16d, 8d, 10dWithdrawal: 130–250 lbs/nailFlooring, siding, exterior applications

Wood Finishes

ProductVOC LevelDry TimeCoverageBest Applications
Rubio Monocoat (hardwax oil)Zero VOC24 hrs (light use)500 sq ft / literInterior floors, furniture, countertops
Waterlox Original (tung oil varnish)Low VOC24–48 hrs per coat200–400 sq ft / qtHeavy-use floors, bar tops, exterior millwork
General Finishes Enduro PolyZero VOC (waterborne)2–3 hrs per coat300 sq ft / qtCabinetry, furniture, interior millwork
Osmo Polyx-OilLow VOC8 hrs (overnight recoat)400 sq ft / literFlooring, stairs, work surfaces
Pure Tung Oil (100%)Zero VOC72 hrs per coat (3 coats)150–200 sq ft / qtOutdoor furniture, food-safe surfaces
Saman Water-Based StainZero VOC1–2 hrs200–250 sq ft / qtColor enhancement, interior wood

Installation Guides

Proper installation of hardware and finishes on reclaimed wood requires some adjustments from standard new-wood procedures. The following guides address the most common installation scenarios.

Installing Sliding Barn Door Hardware on Reclaimed Wood

  1. 1.Select a header board of solid reclaimed timber (minimum 2x6) to provide adequate thread engagement for the track mounting bolts. Hollow-core or MDF headers will not hold.
  2. 2.Locate and mark wall studs. The track must be anchored into studs or a continuous backing board — not drywall anchors alone. Use ½" lag screws into studs with a minimum 1.5" thread engagement.
  3. 3.Pre-drill lag screw holes slightly undersized in the reclaimed wood to prevent splitting. Reclaimed wood, especially old-growth species, can be very dense and will crack if not pre-drilled.
  4. 4.Use stainless or hot-dipped galvanized hardware only. Reclaimed wood's tannins will react with bare steel, leaving dark rust stains that bleed through any finish.
  5. 5.Account for door weight: most residential barn door hardware is rated for 100–200 lbs. Reclaimed solid wood doors are heavy — a 3x7 solid 2" thick reclaimed Douglas Fir door weighs approximately 150–175 lbs.

Applying Oil Finishes to Reclaimed Hardwood

  1. 1.Clean the surface thoroughly with a dilute oxalic acid solution (1 cup per gallon of water) to remove iron staining from embedded nails, tannin oxidation, and surface contamination. Neutralize with clean water and allow to dry completely.
  2. 2.Sand to 80 or 100 grit to open the grain without removing all patina. For floors, use a drum sander at 80 grit followed by an edger. Do not over-sand — the tight grain of old-growth wood is what you are preserving.
  3. 3.Apply the first coat of oil liberally with a foam roller or rag. Work in manageable sections. Allow full penetration for 15–30 minutes, then wipe off all excess oil with clean cotton rags. Do not leave pooled oil — it will cure tacky and dull.
  4. 4.Allow full cure time before recoating (typically 24 hours for hardwax oils, 72 hours for pure tung oil). Apply second coat more sparingly. Two thin coats outperform one heavy coat in both adhesion and appearance.
  5. 5.Dispose of oil-soaked rags safely: spread flat outdoors or submerge in water before disposal. Oil-soaked rags are a spontaneous combustion risk.

Using Structural Screws in Dense Reclaimed Timber

  1. 1.Always pre-drill structural screw pilot holes in dense species (White Oak, Heart Pine, Hard Maple). Use a bit 70–80% of the screw shank diameter. Driving structural screws without pre-drilling in dense wood will snap the screw or strip the drive head.
  2. 2.For SDS-type structural screws, use the manufacturer's recommended pilot bit — most include one. These bits are stepped to match the screw taper.
  3. 3.When connecting to old-growth timber, reduce your impact driver's torque setting or use a drill/driver. Overtightening pulls the screw head through the connection plate.
  4. 4.Verify that your screw length provides adequate penetration into the receiving member. For load-bearing connections, a minimum of 10 screw diameters of embedment into the main member is standard (e.g., a ½" bolt needs 5" embedment minimum).

Hardware & Finish Compatibility

Not every combination of hardware material and wood species works well together. The following table summarizes compatibility considerations our customers most frequently ask about.

Wood Species / TypeCompatible HardwareAvoidCompatible Finishes
White OakStainless, hot-dipped galv.Bare steel (tannic acid reaction)All finishes; fuming-compatible
Red OakStainless, hot-dipped galv.Bare steel, electroplated zincOil-based poly, hardwax oil, lacquer
Black WalnutStainless, brass, bronzeNone significantDanish oil, oil-varnish, lacquer
Heart PineStainless, hot-dipped galv.Bare steel; resin may coat threadsWater-based poly (oil resists penetration)
Douglas Fir (beams)Hot-dipped galv., stainlessBare steel for exterior applicationsPenetrating oil, water-based poly, lacquer
Reclaimed RedwoodStainless (exterior), galv.Bare or zinc steel (tannic acid)Penetrating oil, semi-transparent stain
Hard MapleAll standard hardwareNone significantWater-based poly (avoids yellowing); lacquer
HickoryAll standard hardwareNone significantWater-based poly, hardwax oil

General rule: any wood with significant tannin content — Oak, Walnut, Redwood, Cedar, and Chestnut are the most common — will stain black when in contact with iron or bare steel in the presence of moisture. This reaction (tannic acid + iron = ferric tannate) is permanent and cannot be sanded out once it penetrates the wood fibers. When in doubt, use stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized hardware and pre-seal contact surfaces with a shellac wash coat.